I have recently had several people ask me about starting a compost pile. What can they put in the pile? Do they need to locate the pile in full sun? Is it a lot of work, with lots of rules to remember?

Actually, composting is such a simple concept: throw stuff in a pile, where it breaks down, thanks to bacteria and other critters like bugs and worms. Even if you do nothing at all to the stuff in the pile, nature takes its course, and compost results. All of the “rules” just make the composting process happen more smoothly and quickly.

As an avid gardener, I make lots of compost every year. Right now I have five full bins in the hidden, working section of my yard – see image above. I’ve also started two new bins right off my back patio, for composting kitchen scraps during the winter. This is so I don’t have to tromp across soggy or snowy ground to access my main compost piles.

These bins are located where I usually plant annuals, and I’ll move them to the hidden area before planting time next spring. By then there will be compost to harvest from each of the bins, so the seven bins will become two or three.

I’m a fanatic in that every scrap of garden and kitchen waste ends up in the pile. I even collect garden waste from my neighbors. But I’m not one to meticulously tend and turn the pile – that’s too much work!

I throw the stuff together in a wire bin, turn the contents of the bin a couple of times a year, and harvest what is ready, retaining the unfinished portions to start a new pile.

Here are my best pointers for beginner composters:

Feed the pile: The microbes responsible for breaking down your compost pile need a balanced diet of nitrogen and carbon. Nitrogen comes from “green” materials such as food scraps, garden waste, manure, kitchen scraps and grass clippings. Carbon comes from “brown” materials such as dead leaves, straw, wood chips and shredded newspaper. A ratio that contains equal portions of both works best.

For example, grass clippings add necessary nitrogen to a compost pile, but should be mixed with the “brown” materials that add carbon. Piles made up of only high nitrogen materials will begin to stink and attract flies.

In the fall, if you only have dried leaves, you can add a handful of fertilizer to provide nitrogen that will speed up decomposition.

Mix it up: Compost piles can either be layered – thin layers of alternating greens and browns, or they can all be thrown in together and mixed well. Either way works. When you add kitchen scraps, be sure to bury them or to cover them with “brown” materials to prevent attracting animals to the pile.

Size matters: The perfect size for a compost pile is one that is at least 3′ x 3′ x 3′. It is a manageable size to turn, and it’s ideal for retaining heat while still allowing air flow. I make my simple bins from 10-foot lengths of 36-inch tall wire fencing.

Sun or shade? The decomposers work more quickly in sunny locations but a shady location will do – it’ll just take longer. In a sunny spot, it is more important to keep the pile moist. Make sure that each layer is moist as it is added. The surface should also remain damp, especially during the summer months.

More is better: Ideally, you should have at least two compost piles. While you are busy filling one pile the second one can be busy decomposing. When it’s time to empty the decomposing one, they can switch positions and start all over again.

Kitchen assistance: You’re more likely to compost if you don’t have to run out to the composter a few times a day. Keep a lidded container in your kitchen for convenience and empty it a few times a week. I use this composting pail from Gardener’s Supply.

Is it compost? Finished compost is usually less than half the volume of the materials you started with, but it’s much denser. When finished it should look, feel and smell like rich, dark soil. You should not be able to recognize any of the items you put in the pile.

Avoid these things: Do not compost fats, pet droppings, or animal products. They will attract pests to the pile and can spread disease. Do not compost diseased garden clippings. Plants that have been treated with pesticides or herbicides should be avoided.

Stinky pile? It’s probably due to a large number of anaerobic microbes, working to break down the pile without oxygen. Add some carbon-rich “brown” material and turn the pile, creating air spaces and limiting the anaerobic microbes while stimulating the less stinky aerobic microbes.

Use it! Work finished compost to your garden about 2-4 weeks before you plant, giving the compost time to integrate and stabilize within the soil. Or use it as mulch at any time. Compost is basically the equivalent of humus – the good stuff in soil that sustains plant life. It helps the soil retain moisture, assists with the formation of good soil structure and provides nutrients.

Any questions or advice? Leave a comment below.

Happy Gardening and Composting, too . . .

Sue

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